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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.